Far Niente Winery: Fast Cars and Fine Wine

My father has been racing cars since the early Sixties. His first race car was a Fiat Abarth Zagato 750, which is affectionately known as a "Double Bubble." An example of the Double Bubble can be seen to the right. Since then he has seemingly had more race cars than I could list on this page. He still races to this day. In fact, as I write this he is at Mid-Ohio Raceway in Lexington, Ohio, racing his latest and perhaps his greatest car - Jo Bonnier's 1970 Lola T210, which can be seen below the Fiat. What does this have to do with wine, you ask? For me everything, because it was through his racing that I was introduced to Far Niente.

In spite of my obvious lack of mechanical ability and interest, I was my father's pit crew through most of my teenage years. It's not that I don't like racing or watching him race, but I don't enjoy working on cars, and I'm not very good at it either. I can remember at one race really doing a number on his Lotus 23B by severely over tightening the bolts securing the intake manifold thereby cracking it. Oops. That same weekend I met Gil Nickel, who was the owner of Far Niente Winery. To the left, Gil can be seen racing his own Lotus 23B.

If my dad was bent because I trashed his engine he really didn't show it. He knew I wasn't very mechanically inclined, so I guess he figured he probably should not have had me anywhere near a rare, vintage race car in the first place. The intake manifold would need to be replaced, but it would survive the weekend. At the end of the day my dad said that one of his friends from California was pitted close by and we should stop in for a visit. That friend was Gil Nickel, and it didn't take long for him to become my new hero. He had shown up with a semi full of exotic race cars and a reefer truck full of Far Niente wines.

When we returned from the race I called The Wine Merchant outside of Baltimore, MD to see if they carried Far Niente wines. They said they did, so fake I.D. in hand I drove the few miles to the store intent on buying a half case. Upon seeing the price, my elation turned to dismay as I realized it would be many years before I could afford to buy a single bottle of Far Niente, let alone six.

I was fairly obsessed with Far Niente for quite some time after that, but my experience was mostly limited to the few times I could convince my father to order a bottle at a restaurant. Through racing, my father and Gil kept in touch over the years, and that connection has made Far Niente somewhat of a family favorite. A few years ago, however, we called Far Niente to schedule a tasting with Gil, and were shocked and saddened to learn that Gil had passed away after a battle with cancer. His passing is a great loss to the Napa Valley, but his passion for producing great wine lives on through his family.

Year after year Far Niente's commitment to excellence is on display in their current releases. I tasted both the 2005 Chardonnay and the 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon this week, and was not disappointed. It seems, however, that starting with the 2002 vintage Far Niente's Cabernets have been made in a more fruit driven, soft and oaky style, where in the past they shared more characteristics with their counterparts in Bordeaux. The recent vintages of Cabernet have all been very good, but it's not really the style I prefer.

Their recent Chardonnays have been outstanding, and 2005 is probably the best of the past five vintages. The '05 was aged on the lees for about nine months and it did not go through malolactic fermentation (ML). Far Niente was one of the first Napa Valley wineries to forgo ML when making chards, and it has helped in making their Chardonnay program a tremendous success.

I recommend scheduling a tour and tasting at Far Niente whenever visiting the area. Although the fee is now up to $50, they taste visitors on five different wines including their current releases and a couple of library wines as well. It's a beautiful winery, and the grounds and the caves are fantastic. Furthermore, the tour ends with a visit to the barn where some of Gil's cars are garaged. If you are into classic cars and great wine, Far Niente is not to be missed.

Winery: Far Niente
Wine: 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon
Winemaker: Stepahnie Putnam
Estimated Cost: $95

Tasting Notes: Dark ruby/purple to the rim. Notes of butterscotch, vanilla, blueberry, blackberry and blackcurrant. The oak is a bit too prominent for me at this stage of its development, and it seems to overwhelm some of the fruit. This should not be a long term problem for the wine, and probably is not a problem for most tasters. Although I like the flavors oak imparts on wine, I am sensitive to it and think that many wineries are a bit heavy handed with oak. The finish on this wine is nice and long, and the wine is seamless from front to back. 90 points.

Winery: Far Niente
Wine: 2005 Chardonnay
Winemaker: Stephanie Putnam
Estimated Cost: $42

Tasting Notes: Very Burgundian in style. Rich and mouthfilling, but not at all flabby. Notes of pears, apple, vanilla and beeswax. Oak is toasty and nicely integrated. Nice minerality as well. Although I am generally not a fan of California Chardonnay, Far Niente's 2005 is an exception to the rule. 93 points.

Spottswoode Winery, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

What better varietal to write about on the eve of the Summer Solstice than Sauvignon Blanc? I had originally intended to cover several red wines from a few of the lesser known communes of Bordeaux, but today turned out to be the first really hot day of the summer. It was one of those days during which you involuntarily keep waving your hand in front of your car's A/C vents to see if they are still working. As the day wore on and the mercury continued to ascend, my enthusiasm for tasting a flight of young, powerful, tannic reds waned. Eventually, I decided that only a maniac would want to taste young Bordeaux on such a day, and I am arguably no maniac. So, when I got home I didn't even bother with the rigmarole of scanning through my CellarTracker database to find what I already knew was the perfect wine for such a day - Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc.

Spottswoode Estate Vineyard & Winery is best known for their perennially fantastic Cabernet Sauvignon, which is why a few years ago I scheduled a tasting at the winery. It is a leisurely and educational tour and tasting, and it is one of the better tours in the Napa Valley. Tastings without a tour are currently not an option. Only two tastings per week are scheduled, so if you are interested in visiting Spottswoode make reservations several weeks in advance. It was at this tasting I was introduced to Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc.

The tour began on the covered porch of their Victorian style house on Madrona St. in St. Helena, which has been converted into offices. I was eager to taste their current release Cabernet Sauvignon, which at the time was the epic 2001 vintage. As we waited for a few stragglers to show up, they poured each of us a glass of the 2004 Sauvignon Blanc to start with. Not thinking too much about it (because I was there to taste the Cab), I took a sip while chatting with some other guests, and was immediately blown away. Damn! That's some good Sauvignon Blanc, I said aloud. I didn't even know these guys made an SB! Soon, accolades from various other guests could be heard as well.

Just about that time the stragglers finally arrived and the tour began. The stragglers, by the way, had just come from visiting David Arthur Vineyards and were pretty shellacked. Apparently, their tour at David Arthur got a little out of hand, and they ended up doing a bunch of tequila shots with the tour guide. Did I mention that Spottswoode tours begin at 10:00 a.m.? Yikes! Actually, they were very nice people, but this tour must have seemed rather somber when compared with their first tour of the morning.

The tour ended with a poolside tasting of the Spottswoode Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which was outstanding, however, I joined their mailing list for the Sauvignon Blanc. Like their Cabernet Sauvignon, you can bank on Spottswoode producing one of the best SB's in California year after year. I often serve this wine when we have guests on warm summer days. Regardless of their experience with SB, after their first taste of Spottswoode it seems they always ask what they are drinking and where they can buy it. This is a great summer wine and SB is a great food wine as well. Although the price is on the high end for Sauvignon Blanc, you certainly won't be suffering from buyer's remorse after your first taste. In fact, you'll probably be a little sad you didn't buy more.

Producer: Spottswoode Winery

Wine: 2006 Sauvignon Blanc

Winemakers: Rosemary Cakebread and Jennifer Williams

Estimated Cost: $34

Tasting Notes: Crisp and tropical. Straw colored with hints of grapefruit, melons, honeysuckle, peaches and vanilla. Nice weight for a Sauvignon Blanc, but still balanced with underlying minerality and acidity. Finshes long. Still early in its development, it should improve over the next several months and drink well through 2010.

Relic Wines, 2004 Alder Springs Syrah

Winemakers looking to make great Syrah should take a page out of Relic Wines owner/winemaker Mike Hirby's book. Furthermore, readers traveling to the Napa Valley should try to schedule a tasting with Mike. If the thought of tasting with the owner and winemaker conjures up images of sitting around a white tablecloth with a stuffy, old, self-important, elitist then you've got the wrong guy. Mike is committed to one thing only when it comes to Relic, and it is not his ego - it is making great wine. When tasting with Mike his passion and enthusiasm for wine are apparent, and his laid back demeanor and affable personality will immediately put you at ease. Currently, he tastes by appointment only at Behrens and Hitchcock, which is at the top of Spring Mountain on the Napa/Sonoma county line. Try to schedule back to back tastings with Relic and B&H, but plan on either spitting or having a designated driver. Spring Mtn. Road is narrow and steep with numerous tight curves.

Before becoming a winemaker, Mike was a sommelier at Primitivo in Colorado Springs. I sat down with him for a brief, virtual interview earlier this week to learn a bit more.

How did you become interested in wine?
I was first introduced to quality wine in college when a friend told me about a wine sale at the local wine shop. We were on a budget, so this was pertinent. I became entranced by a particular bottle of Ridge Zinfandel from Geyserville, and my life has never been the same!

What was your first winemaking gig?
After an ill-fated trip to learn how to make wine in the Cotes Du Rhone in Cairanne, I moved to Napa Valley and started working for Behrens and Hitchcock. I was the Assistant winemaker from 2000-2002. I was hired as the Winemaker for Realm Cellars in 2002.

How did you become involved with Behrens & Hitchcock?
A friend I met at a local wine shop my second day in Napa Valley told me to apply to work harvest at a GREAT winery, not just a good winery, so I called Les, met him in my loaded-down, dented 1988 VW at his winery. He jokes that he took one look at my beat-up car and hired me on the spot, which is more or less true.

Relic's motto is "Modern wines the old way." What is it about using primitive winemaking techniques that compels you to do so?
Making wine the old way, I have a chance to experience the miracle of winemaking - the sense of working with nature and looking through the "magnifying glass" to taste the communion of earth and human endeavor. You could call this terroir. As soon as I start to make a wine simply to sell, the miracle has vanished. By taking the risks that are inherent in "the old way," the wines are not simply products, but expressions of something else entirely. Something ancient.

What is your favorite varietal to work with?
My favorite varietal to work with is Syrah! It can be made so many different ways, with dramatically different results. It is a fantastic paintbrush.

Outside of the B&H umbrella, what is your favorite wine?
Today that would be a 2002 Joseph Roty Mazy-Chambertin enjoyed recently,because it had the modernity of CA Pinot Noir, but with a fantastic focus that I just have not seen in CA. My mind will probably change tomorrow!

What is your favorite appellation outside of California?
Tough question! My favorite appellation outside of the US is probably one of the following depending on the day: Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Chevalier-Montrachet, Chambertin-Clos-du-Beze, or Cote-Rotie.
What is Relic's production?
Relic's 2006 production will be around 750 cases. We may grow to about 1500 cases eventually, but not anytime soon.

Where can readers find Relic wines?
People can buy Relic Wines directly from us via our mailing list! But there are also great restaurants in NY, Las Vegas, and HI that have our wines. Look for Union Square Café in NY and Alec's at the Wynn in Vegas.

Producer: Relic Wines
Wine: 2004 Alder Springs Syrah, Mendecino County
Winemaker: Mike Hirby
Estimated Cost: $54

Tasting Notes: A huge wine. Deep purple to the rim. Notes of white pepper, plum, blueberry, raspberry, smoke and game with grippy tannins. Finish goes on and on. Still very young. Some may find the tannins to be too much at this point, but they will mellow with a little bit of time in the cellar. I have had very few California Syrahs which are its equal. 93 points

Teachworth, 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Blend

I consider myself to be a reasonably tough critic. Many times I agree with the most prominent writers, but other times I find myself wondering what the hell all the hype is about. This being my inaugural post, however, I've decided to start out on a high note.

For those who are simply interested in what I think of the wine, and not my experience at the winery, this one is a BUY. It will undoubtedly be one of my highest scoring wines ever at 97 points, and I highly suggest readers get on their mailing list before this producer is discovered by Parker. Full tasting notes are available at the bottom of this post.

The story of tasting with Joan Teachworth should be of interest to anyone with children, and especially to those thinking of having children.

My wife and I travel to the Napa Valley several times a year for tasting. Of late, our travels have been somewhat hampered by the addition of two children over the past three years. Last month, however, we once again made the pilgrimage to the holy land of Cabernet with our two little ones. My sister, brother-in-law, their two little ones, and my father and his girlfriend also made the journey. It was a fun crew, but I very quickly learned that such a group doesn't go well with the private tastings I usually schedule when traveling to the Napa Valley.

I had one such tasting scheduled with Teachworth Winery. Of course, the baby sitter we had arranged pulled a no show, so my wife graciously volunteered to watch the two infants while my sister and I went to the tasting - just as long as we agreed to take the two toddlers. I was hesitant, but the kids seem to entertain each other, so I figured they would just run around on the lawn while my sister and I would enjoy a pleasant tasting with Joan Teachworth.

As soon as we stepped into Joan's home I realized I had made a big mistake in bringing the kids. The Teachworths, you see, are art collectors. Their taste is eclectic, and although displayed in an informal and comfortable way, they have lots of artwork and sculptures throughout the home. Some pieces are worth more than others, but to tell you the truth I couldn't tell which ones were worth $50 and which were worth $50,000 - all I knew was that the kids seemed to be on a search and destroy mission. Although my blood pressure soared to new heights while trying to keep the kids from smashing what might be family heirlooms, Joan was as relaxed as a hippie in a hookah bar.

She poured each of us a glass of the '02 Estate Blend (100% Cabernet Sauvignon) and offered cheese and cherries grown on the property. As I began to take in the nose one of the two kids started banging away on the piano. Although they are both pretty sharp kids neither is a childhood prodigy. After steering them away from the piano we decided it might be best to move to the deck to keep the kids out of trouble. No sooner than Joan had cautioned that the deck was very high (about 35') and could pose a danger to the kids, my niece began climbing up the railing. We pulled her away from the precipitous drop, then my 2 1/2 year old son discovered the retractable screen - THWAP! THWAP! THWAP!

At that point Joan sensed our worry about what they might do next and suggested a walk around the property. We quickly agreed. As we started to walk, things began to get better. It was a beautiful day, my stress level was subsiding, and I finally got a chance to taste from the glass and ask Joan a few questions. The kids darted ahead, but as we approached the bocce ball court (Joan is an avid bocce player) my son came waddling back toward us with a frown on his face. In his saddest and whinniest voice he said, I pee-peed through my diaper and now my pants are wet.

Could this get any worse? Embarrassed, I placed my glass on a barrel and excused myself to go change him. Clearly unfazed Joan said Oh, just take off his pants and let him go in the woods. It's really no big deal.

Upon returning from the car he promptly spilled my wine - on purpose. Luckily, the glass was spared from breaking. Of course, when I picked him up in a failed attempt to keep him from spilling the glass in the first place he screamed and cried as if I were about to beat the tar out of him - never mind that he has never been spanked in his life. Now I just wanted to get out of there. Fast. But Joan insisted that she loves kids, and suggested we go down to the pool where there is a lawn for them to run around on. She poured me a refill, and off we went.

As we made our way down to the pool we talked with Joan a little bit more about her vineyards and winery. It didn't take long, however, for the kids to discover the flower garden and pick some of her flowers. They then raced across the lawn as we tried get a few more words in with Joan. While talking with her I thought I heard a sprinkler head in the background. You know that sound when a sprinkler head returns to it's starting position? At first it sounds like ch-ch-ch-ch with a 1/4 second pause in between the ch's. Then it returns rapid fire chchchchchchchch with no pauses. That was the sound.

A few seconds later I hear my sister shout - Oh my God, a snake! Turns out, my son had found a 5' long rattlesnake at the edge of the lawn and was laughing hysterically while "playing with it." Luckily, he wasn't bitten, and the snake retreated as I cautiously scooped up my son. At that point we decided to not tempt fate anymore than we already had and call it a day. Assuring us that they would be intact upon our return, Joan kindly offered to watch the kids while we went to our next tasting. We declined her offer, of course, and unfortunately had to cancel with Diamond Terrace, which was our next tasting.

The moral of this story is always bring your nanny when traveling to the Napa Valley.

Producer: Teachworth Winery

Wine: Estate Cabernet, 2002

Winemaker: Phil Steinschriber

Estimated Cost: $100

Tasting Notes: Deep purple/black to the rim. Extremely concentrated, but this is no fruit bomb. Alluring nose of blackcurrant, blackberry, plums, lavender, cigar box, new saddle leather and lead pencil. Slowly builds and unfolds in the mouth revealing layer after layer. A backward, brooding, monumental wine. Not for the faint of heart. It will require several years of cellaring before it is ready to drink, but it's clearly a 25 - 30 year wine. One of the best Cabernets I've ever had the pleasure of tasting. 97 points. find it